ࡱ> {}vwxyz#` URbjbj  {1^^^$D)P:6bFXN&p::  >bd4XXXXXXX$ZhP]?X8>>88?X  4TX8j  X8X2M<LA  *v?5IjX0X}@^ ^\AAD^A`8888888?X?X8888X8888bFbFbFDdDdbFbFbF00 Version 6 11/14/2007 Comments, Corrections, Additions Welcomed THE FOURTH MARINES IN Shanghai, CHINA Fred Greguras( 801 California Street Mountain View, CA 94041 650.335.7241 650.248.4558 (cell)  HYPERLINK "mailto:fgreguras@fenwick.com" fgreguras@fenwick.com TABLE OF CONTENTS Page I. Introduction 1 II. Barracks, Headquarters and Support Facilities 2 III. Fourth Marines Church 13 IV. Fourth Marines Band 15 V. Regimental Clubs 16 VI. Officers Clubs 18 VII. YMCAs 19 VIII. Along Bubbling Well Road 20 IX. Soochow (Suzhou) Creek Defense Perimeter 23 X. Conclusion 24 Sources 25 Street Names Chart 29 Introduction While Shanghai is rapidly changing with old buildings giving way to new buildings, thereare still many places remaining related to the Fourth Marine regiments long presence in the cityfrom 1927 to 1941. The 1st and 3rd Battalions of the regiment were deployed to Shanghai in 1927 to protect American citizens and property in Shanghais International Settlement (theSettlement) on the Puxi or west side of the Huangpu River (then called the Whampoo River). The 2nd Battalion was deployed to Tientsin, China at the same time and redesignated into another regiment. The 2nd Battalion of the Fourth Marines was reactivated in Shanghai on September 18, 1932 in order for the regiment to be at full strength to effectively defend the U.S. defense sector of the Settlement. The 3rd Battalion was deactivated in Shanghai on December19, 1934. The purpose of this paper is to identify places in Shanghai associated with the Fourth Marines and the current status of those locations. I hope this paper will encourage others to provide additional information, comments and corrections so this part of the regiments history can be recorded. This version of the paper is footnoted and there is a list of sources at the end of the paper. It also includes my report on my 2007 visits to many sites. Iwas able to walk through the areas where the Marines lived, worked and played. The initial threat in Shanghai in the late 1920s was from Chinas warring factions but thedanger became the fighting between Chinese and Japanese forces and then from the Japanese. The Japanese wanted control over the Settlement after the Japanese took Shanghai from the Chinese. The Fourth Marines became a permanent garrison in the Settlement even though it was assigned as an expeditionary force. The regiment left Shanghai on November27 and 28, 1941. The Fourth Marines duty in Shanghai was summarized in an eloquent way by W.RobertTaylor, a Baptist missionary in Shanghai who made these observations on November23, 1941: This morning I went to the Marine [church] Service the last one Shanghai may ever have as it is doubtful they will ever be here in a body again. . Itwas a solemn 2000 people who walked out of the Grand Theatre this morning. It felt as though we had attended a funeral service. The Marines are leaving Shanghai with a fine record and carrying with them the affection of all nationals. Uncle Sam can be proud of his representatives. They served and did not dominate. They gave and did not take. As individuals and as a group they played the gentleman. Headquarters and other locations changed over the 14 years the regiment was in Shanghai. The pre-World War II (pre-War) street names are generally used throughout this paper in describing locations with the current street names identified in parentheses the first time a street name is mentioned, if known. There is also a street name comparison chart following the list of sources. In some cases I have used the current street name to identify the location of a building or other landmark that did not exist during the regiments time in Shanghai. The major east-west road in Puxi from 1927-1941 was Nanking Road which started at the Bund and became Bubbling Well Road, and then Great Western Road as it went west across Shanghai. This road went across about the middle of the Settlement. This road is now East Nanjing, West Nanjing and West Yanan Road and is a good reference point for describing locations. Another reference point is the former Shanghai race course and public recreation grounds (the Race Course) on West Nanjing Road. This is now Peoples Square and Peoples Park. A number of buildings mentioned below were near the north end of the Race Course. Barracks, Headquarters and Support Facilities There was never a single Marine compound or barracks in Shanghai as in other cities inChina. Since the Marines were on expeditionary duty, the regiment was not in a central barracks. Barracks, headquarters, hospitals and other facilities were in converted schools (including the former St. Jeanne dArc College buildings), factories, office buildings or private mansions rented from their owners or the Shanghai Municipal Council. Each location was assigned a billet number or name. The term billets was used more broadly than merely designating a place for lodging. It was used to designate a regimental location such as a headquarters even if it did not include lodging. There was usually a compound of buildings at a battalion level designated as a billet although sometimes a billet was a building used as a barracks large enough only for a single company of Marines. Some buildings were reused by the regiment for different purposes over the years, sometimes with time gaps in use. This was based on the friendliness of the landlord, force size requirements and the usefulness of the facility. 1927-1928 Billets: The regiment was initially billeted in eight different buildings in five scattered parts of the city. Many of these temporary billets were in bamboo houses, power plants, public parks, etc. Thesetemporary billets changed often during the 1927-28 period with the 3rd Battalion having the earliest permanent billet. The 1st Battalion was billeted on Nanyang (still named Nanyang), Seymour (Shanxi), Gordon (Jiangning), and Jessfield (Wanhangdu) Roads. As indicated, the regiment did not initially have a 2nd Battalion. The 3rd Battalion was at the corner of Moulmein (North Maoming) Road and Avenue Foch (Central Yanan/West Jinling Road) in two compounds on the boundary line of the French Concession and the Settlement. One of the compounds was on the east side and the other on the west side of Moulmein. Companies L and M and headquarters were located in the General Lu Compound on the west side of Moulmein, at one time the home of a Chinese General: Although a few alterations have been made in order to make it a bit more convenient for the every day life of a Marine, the exterior of the buildings and grounds have not been altered in the least. The fish pond and winding rock paths still remain as they were when the General wasliving. Companies I and K, the mess hall, and recreation room were located in the St.JeannedArc compound, a former college on the east side of the street. The 3rd Battalion first occupied this compound in May, 1927. These two compounds were designated Billet10(the CollegeCompounds). The address of the College Compounds was 6 Moulmein Road in 1929 and 3-6 Moulmein Road in 1934. 1929 Billets: Billets were along Sinza and Seymour Roads and at the College Compounds in 1929. Headquarters was at 118 Sinza Road, which was 1216-1226 Sinza after the address change inApril, 1933. Locations along Sinza were 96 and 116-118-120. In 1929, under the old addressing scheme, the American Defense Force was located at 148-154 and 160 Seymour. These were the 1st Battalion billets since the 3rd Battalion was in the College Compounds. The 148-154 and 160 Seymour addresses were south of the Ohel Rachel Synagogue at 200 Seymour (currently 500 Seymour) and north of the Soong house at 139Seymour (currently 369 Seymour). The regimental hospital was at 375Seymour (current address) immediately north of the Soong house and the last building south of Avenue (Beijing) Road. The 140-154 and 160 Seymour addresses likely included the hospital and other support facilities as well as barracks. After the address change, even number addresses were on the east side of a street and odd number addresses on the west side, but this approach may not have been consistently used in 1929. 1932 Billets: The 3rd Battalion remained at the College Compounds. On September18,1932 the 2nd Battalion was reactivated using Marinesfrom the other battalionsand from state side drafts as a nucleus. The 2nd Battalion was quartered at the northeast corner of Chengtu (Chengdu) and Bubbling Well Roads (theChengtuCompound) until April, 1938. The Chengtu Compound was designated as Billet 2. September, 1932 December, 1934 (the Three Battalion Period): The Fourth Marines was at its full strength of three battalions in Shanghai during September 18, 1932 to December 19, 1934. Robert Denig, son of a China Marine, provided a map of the Three Battalion Period showing the location of the billets for all three battalions.. The 1st Battalion was located near the southeast corner of Gordon and Markham Roads. The 2nd Battalion is in the Chengtu Compound and the 3rd Battalion is in the College Compounds. The map shows the College Compounds on both sides of Moulmein just north of Avenue Foch. The former St. Jeanne dArc College was on the northeast corner and the Chinese generals home on the northwest corner. The map has an old officers club located on the east side of Seymour just north of Avenue Road. This may have been part of the 1929 era billets located along Seymour. 1933-1934 Billets: As of late 1933, there were twelve billets where the Marines lived and worked, some of them more than a mile from headquarters. The 1st Battalion was billeted at 196 and 256 Ferry (Xikang) Road as of July, 1934. The 2nd Battalion continued to be quartered at the Chengtu Compound. The 3rd Battalion continued to be located in the College Compounds until it was deactivated on December19, 1934. 1936 Billets: By 1936, the regimental headquarters and most other facilities were along Ferry, Seymour, Sinza (Xinzha) and Haiphong (Haifang) Roads. Most of the regiments facilities in the later years in Shanghai were in a rectangle with Hart (Changde) Ferry and Gordon being the east and west borders, respectively, and Haiphong and Bubbling Well being the north and south borders, respectively. 527 Haiphong Road: regimental headquarters, service company (Billet 3) 375 Seymour Road: Hospital (Billet 4) 1226 Sinza Road: Post exchange and A Company, 1st Battalion (Billet 12) 196 Ferry Road: D Company, 1st Battalion (Billet 16) 256 Ferry Road: 1st Battalion headquarters and B Company (Billet 15). 489 Ferry Road: Commissary and quartermaster department (Billet 5). This location was first used for quartermaster purposes in November, 1930 551 Ferry Road: US Marine Barracks (Billet17) Lane 370, Ferry Road: 1st Battalion headquarters company (Billet 18) 460 Chengtu Road: 2nd Battalion headquarters, headquarters company, CompanysE, F, and H (Billet 2). This was the Chengtu Compound. 1937 Billets: The locations identified below are from 1937 prior to the arrival of the Sixth Marines in September, 1937. The locations were the same as 1936 but more detail is provided on the units at each facility: 527 Haiphong Road: regimental headquarters, motor transport company, service company, headquarters company (regimental), post office and chaplains office (Billet3)375 Seymour Road: Hospital (Billet 4)1226 Sinza Road: Regimental brig, provost marshals office, post exchange office and A Company, 1st Battalion (Billet 12)196 Ferry Road: D Company, 1st Battalion (Billet 16)256 Ferry Road: 1st Battalion headquarters and B Company (Billet 15).489 Ferry Road: Commissary and quartermaster department (Billet 5).551 Ferry Road: 1st Battalion headquarters company, band office, athletic office and Walla Walla office (Billet17)Lane 370, Ferry Road: 22 caliber indoor rifle range (Billet 18)460 Chengtu Road: 2nd Battalion headquarters, headquarters company, CompanysE, F, and H (Billet 2). This was the Chengtu Compound.1937-1938 Second Brigade Period (the Second Brigade Period): The Fourth Marines together with the Sixth Marines were designated the Second Brigade during September, 1937 to February, 1938. The Fourth Marines billets were the same as under 1937 Billets above except as follows: 243 Gordon Road:Hospital (Billet 29)225 Ferry:Headquarters, 1st Battalion375 Seymour, (the old hospital):Headquarters and A Companies, 1st Battalion (Billet 4)196 and 256 Ferry:B and D Companies, 1st Battalion (Billets 15 and 16)293 Ferry (southwest corner, Sinza and Ferry Roads)C Company, 1st Battalion526 Bubbling Well:G Company, 2nd Battalion, beginning in late 1937 (Billet 22). This was west of the Chengtu Compound at the northwest corner of Chengtu and Bubbling Well.1051 Bubbling Well:Fourth Marines Band1938 Billets: The 2nd Battalion moved from the Chengtu Compound to a compound at 372 Haiphong Road in April, 1938 (Haiphong Compound). Marine David Johnson prepared a map for me of the Haiphong Compound. The compound was comprised of four buildings; a barracks housing Companys F and H, a second barracks housing Company E and battalion offices, a mess hall and a guard/gate house. There was also a pistol firing range on the east side of the compound, which was named Price Field after Colonel Charles F.B. Price, regimental commander from May7, 1936 to October23, 1938. By September 17, 1938, billets were the same as during the Second Brigade Period except 526 and 1051 Bubbling Well were no longer being used. July, 1939 Billets: The billets were the same as 1938 except that 375 Seymour, 526 Bubbling Well and 1051 Bubbling Well were not being used, the regimental headquarters was now at 1607-9 Sinza Road and 1st Battalion companies were located as follows: Headquarters Company at 225 Ferry; A Company at 293 Ferry; B Company at Camp Holcomb at Chinwangtao and D Company at 196 Ferry. May 1940 Billets:  The billets now had the names of former regimental commanding officers and the first regimental surgeon rather than numbers: 1607-9 Sinza Road (at the southeast corner of Sinza and Hart (Changde)): Regimental headquarters, headquarters company (regimental), post office and chaplains office (Billet Pendleton) 225 Ferry Road: 1st Battalion headquarters (Billet Lyman). This billet included 196 Ferry and 293 Ferry. 489 Ferry Road: Commissary and quartermaster department (Billet Russell) 551 Ferry Road: Post exchange, service company, regimental band (Billet Williams) Sinza and Seymour Roads (northeast corner at 1226 Sinza): Motor transportation, maintenance, provost marshals office (Billet Marix) 243 Gordon Road: Hospital (Billet Jones) 372 Haiphong Road: 2nd Battalion headquarters (Billet Miller). This was the Haiphong Compound. Marine Don Versaw has these memories of Billet Marix: The late Wm. Bill Finken was a motor transport NCO there. In his last years when we met at monthly AMEX-POW meetings, he often just called our billet there as Sinza-Seymour. It was a big one. The MP company and Brig were there along with MT Co. and all the service company shops. Another important one was the carpenter shop. One of its more active jobs was crating up chests, furniture, books and householdeffects for Officers and SNCOs to ship home after their tours on the Asiatic Station busy place. July, 1941 Billets The billets were the same as May, 1940 except 551 Ferry was no longer being used. November 1941 Billets: In late November, 1941, the regiments two battalions, the 1st and 2nd, were very small, a total of approximately 800 Marines and attached naval personnel. Each had only two companies according to Mr. Versaw. As indicated above, the 3rd Battalion had been deactivated in December, 1934. The battalions were small because of the anticipated withdrawal from Shanghai. The 1st Battalions billets were near the intersection of Ferry and Avenue Roads (probably still 196, 225 and 293 Ferry) as the battalion formed up at that location to march to the waterfront at the Bund to leave China. Avenue Road was the west extension of Peking (Beijing) Road, and was the first major road north of Bubbling Well Road. At that time, the 2nd Battalion was still billeted in the Haiphong Compound. Mr. White recalled that the 1st Battalion headquarters was still along Ferry Road and Mr.Versaw remembered that the 1st Battalion billets were still along Ferry and the 2nd Battalion billet was still the Haiphong Compound just prior to the regiments departure. Mr. Versaw indicated that the 551 Ferry billet was no longer being used as of April, 1941. Band quarters had been moved to Billet Marix at 1226 Sinza. Regimental Headquarters: There were temporary headquarters locations when the regiment first landed in Shanghai in March, 1927. The first permanent regimental headquarters appears to have been at 118 Sinza Road and moved in late July, 1930. Today, the address 118 is at the east end of Sinza but 118 Sinza in 1929 was actually the compound at 1216-1226 Sinza after the address change in April, 1933. The next Marine headquarters was at 527 Haiphong Road beginning in late July, 1930. The headquarters was on the south side of the road just west of Ferry Road. This was a compound of buildings rather than a single building. The regimental headquarters was at this location through at least August, 1938. The final headquarters was at 1607-9 Sinza Road (Billet Pendleton) beginning by mid-September, 1938 and was designated Billet 1. This was also a compound of buildings. Regimental Hospital: The December 17, 1938 Walla Walla has ahistory of the regimental hospital. The first hospital established in 1927 was at 375 Seymour Road in an old Chinese residence. A new and much improved hospital compound at 243Gordon Road was first occupied on September 10, 1937. All buildings were located in a large and spacious compound within easy walking distance of all billets. There were four buildings in the compound: Administration building in a former Chinese residence Mess hall in the former servant quarters Hospital ward in a newly constructed building Quarters for the hospital corps in a newly constructed building The hospital remained at this location until the regiment left Shanghai. Marine Don Versaw remembered with great appreciation, the important role of the U.S. Navy doctors, corpsmen and other personnel at the hospital who supported the Marines at drills, on marches and at ceremonies. Athletic Fields: Track meets and other athletic events were held at the Race Course andPioneer Field. Pioneer Field was in the southeast part of French Concession and was mentioned often in the Walla Walla in the early years of the regiments stay in Shanghai. By 1940 the Pioneer Field area had become tract-type residences. Baseball games were played at the northeast side of the Race Course and at Billet 10, the College Compounds. Boxing matches were also held at Billet10. Parade Grounds: Regimental size parades and inspections were held at the Race Course along Bubbling Well Road. Each week the Settlement turns out for their [the Fourth Marines] parade on the Racecourse and thousands of Chinese crowd the movie theater where they hold their Sunday services. Bubbling Well ran along the north side of the Race Course. The Marines also played baseball games and rugby on the Race Course. The Race Course area is now Peoples Square and Park. The club house building that shows in the inspection photos still stands at the northwest corner of Peoples Park (325 West Nanjing Road) but not much else remains of the Race Course. The former Sun Department Store building north of the Race Course that appears in many Marines parade photos still stands at 830 East Nanjing Road at the west end of the Nanjing Road pedestrian mall. It is still being used as a department store known as Shanghai No. 1 Department Store. The inside of this building retains the look and feel of an old fashioned department store. The department store advertised on a regular basis in the Walla Walla in the late 1930s. Another pre-War building that shows in many Marines parade and athletic event photos on the Race Course is Moore Memorial Church on the east side of the Race Course. This large church building also still stands at 316 Central Xizang Road. The Sun Department Store and Moore Memorial Church photos indicate that many parade and athletic activities were primarily on the east side of the Race Course. This open area is gone. There were also smaller parade ground areas near the billets. Marine George Coleman remembers having battalion size parades at a park. Marine Don Versaw indicated that battalion size parades were held at Kiaochow Park and regimental parades at the Race Course. He also indicated that the Fourth Marines Band practiced its marching music at Kiaochow Park because the 551 Ferry billet was not large enough for this purpose. This park was north of Connaught (Kangding) Road at the northwest corner of Changping and Kiaochow Roads near the west boundary of the Settlement. An athletic complex currently occupies the site of the park. Current Status: I had the use of several maps and addresses of many locations to explore in my 2007 visits. The address numbers today are essentially the same as after April, 1933. For example, the Fourth Marines Club building address is still numbered 722 on West Nanjing Road. The large population of Shanghai has caused almost every available space to be used for housing of some type. This is evident as you look down any alley or lane between buildings as well as on the main streets. The pre-War gardens and estates of the Settlement are now almost all used for housing of some type. Most of the large older buildings set back from major streets are either gone or hidden behind newer buildings at street side. Examples of such surviving buildings include the large pre-War buildings behind 1529 Sinza and 1081 Bubbling Well. A landmark for orientation is the Portman Ritz-Carlton Hotel at 1376 West Nanjing Road. The street on the east side of the hotel is Ferry; the next street to the east is Seymour and east of Seymour is Gordon Road, the streets where many Marine facilities were located. Ferry, Seymour and Gordon are all north-south streets. Nanyang, Sinza and Haiphong, also streets where Marine facilities were located, are east-west streets. Ferry and Gordon addresses start at zero at Nanking Road as do the roads. Seymour starts south of Nanking and address numbering starts at about 200 on the north side of Nanking. High rises on the north side of Nanjing Road have destroyed most old buildings in the first block north on Ferry, Seymour and Gordon. There are still many gems of pre-War buildings along and north of Nanyang Road. Ferry Road Buildings. The American Players Canteen, site of the first regimental club at 30 Ferry Road, is gone, obliterated by a high rise building. The first street north of Nanking is Nanyang. West on Nanyang about half a block from Ferry at 205 Nanyang on the south side of the block is the building that housed the NCO Club in 1934. The status of other Marine billets on Ferry Road is as follows: NumberPlacePeriodStatus196Billet 161937Gone. There is a school building on the site.225Billet Lyman1940Still there. There is still a small garden area north and west of this building.256Billet 15Late 1930sProbably gone293Billet Lyman1940Gone489Billet RussellLate 1930s 1941Gone551Billet WilliamsLate 1930s 1941Gone762Privates Club annex 1934May still be thereThe Shanghai Guobin Medical Center at 252 Xikang is one of many medical facilities in the vicinity of the sites of the Marine billets at 196, 225, 256 and 293 Ferry Road. The lane at 1220Beijing Road goes north just to the east of 196 and 256 Ferry. This lane, with its old houses and open space, is a microcosm of pre-War Shanghai. Part of the area on the west side of the lane could have been part of the Marine compound because of how relatively shallow the east side of Ferry Road is where the billets were located. There is a building at the north end of this lane that is visible from the north side of the current building at 252 Ferry. Haiphong Road Buildings. Ferry Road intersects with Haiphong Road at 800north from Nanking Road. To the westof the intersection is the site of 527 Haiphong, thelocation of the second regimental headquarters. I believe this is the building with the current address of 537 based on the photographs in the 1933-34 Fourth Marines Annual. This headquarters compound area has been converted into a restaurant, club and coffee shop destination called the New Factories, which is being described as from 1928 old Shanghai factories. To the east of Ferry Road, on the north side of Haiphong, near the intersection with Seymour is the site of the Haiphong Compound. The site is now the Jing-An Education College Affiliated School. The entry gate into the Haiphong Compound survives with an address of 374Haiphong. The compound is still open space just inside the gate and is occupied by basketball courts, etc. One of the pre-War buildings used by the Marines has survived. It can be seen on the west side of Seymour Road, just north of Haiphong Road. The pistol range to the east is gone. Seymour Road has been extended north from Wuting (Wuding) Road and passes through the area of the pistol range. Seymour went north only as far as Wuting during the pre-War period. Seymour Road Buildings. Both sides of the street in the 300 block of Seymour retain the flavor of pre-War Shanghai. Grace Church is at the southwest corner of Seymour and Avenue Roads at 375Seymour. A Christian worship service was being held in this church during my July, 2007 visit. This was the site of the first regimental hospital and the barracks for two companies of the 1st Battalion in 1937-1938. The stone and brick wall surrounding the current church buildings are the same as in the photo of the hospital buildings in the 1933-34 Fourth Marines Annual. There are only two buildings currently in the compound and they are in the same location as in the photo but I cant tell whether the hospital buildings were remodeled to become the church buildings or the church buildings were constructed after the hospital buildings were demolished. According to the historical plaque, the church was completed in 1942 which may not be correct since World War II was ongoing and Shanghai was then occupied by the Japanese. Next door to the south at 369 Seymour Road is another historical building, the residence of the Soong family. Three Fourth Marine 1st lieutenants had rooms in this residence as of May 1940. Across the street at 380 Seymour is an old building which still shows its pre-War character despite modern changes. The former Seymour apartments where Marines and their families lived still stands at 354. The current buildings in the 400 block on the east side of Seymour were all there in 1940 according to the Street Directory. There are no architecture heritage signs that indicate when the buildings were constructed. There is a row of flats in the middle of the block which was unlikely to have been used by the Marines but the houses at 414 and 430 at the south end of the block could have been used by the Marines. While not a regimental site, the Ohel Rachel Synagogue and Jewish School at 500Seymour survive from pre-War Shanghai. The buildings are now used by the Shanghai Education Bureau. The 1929 NCO club was in the first building immediately south of the synagogue. The club building has survived. There are shop houses at the northeast corner of Seymour and Sinza on the site of Billet Marix, 1226 Sinza. This was billet 12 in 1937. There may be some buildings remaining from the billet behind the shop houses but I have not been able to get through security at the gate. The building which housed the Seymour branch of the Club no longer exists. Lane 660 is still there but is occupied by small and densely packed houses with no sign of any pre-War buildings. Gordon Road. The building which housed the Privates Club at 41-43 Gordon Road is gone; replaced by a highrise building. The later Privates Club building at 283 Gordon is also gone. The second regimental hospital at 243 Gordon is gone except for a small portion of the gardens at the entrance on Gordon Road. The site is now occupied primarily by high rise apartment buildings. The 1st Battalion billet at Gordon and Markham may have been at 688 Gordon in the old buildings currently used as the Jingan Education College Affiliated School compound. Sinza Road. The address of 118 Sinza Road in 1929 was not the same as the location of 118 Sinza today. In 1929, 118 Sinza was actually much further west at what is today 1216-1226 Sinza, at the northeast corner of Seymour and Sinza. The 96, 116-118-120 Sinza locations of 1929 were all likely in what was later known as Billet Marix and Seymour and Sinza, 1216-1226 Sinza. As mentioned above, there may be some buildings remaining from the billet behind the shop houses which front Sinza and Seymour. Most of the buildings of the final regimental headquarters compound at 1607-1609 Sinza, including the headquarters building, are still there. I was able to walk through this compound in July and October 2007. The compound was being used by the University at North Carolina Greensboro in July, 2007 and is now used as an elementary school. The compound appears to occupy the same area as when the Marines used it. There are fewer buildings and the south side of the compound is a playground. Marines would also still be able to recognize a number of the buildings on Sinza to the east of the compound on the south side of the street. A huge pre-War building sits behind the shop buildings at street side at 1529 Sinza. The north side of the street is new Shanghai, being One Park Avenue at 1550 Xinzha, an expensive looking high rise apartment complex. College Compounds. I determined that both the former Jeanne dArc college building and the General Lu home have survived based on my October, 2007 trip. The Lu house has current addresses of 718 Yanan Central Road and 39 South Maoming Road. The college compound address is currently 40 South Maoming Road. The former college building is being used as the Weihai Road No. 3 Primary School and the Lu home is being used for multiple businesses including an art gallery. The 1933-34 Fourth Marines Annual has photos of each building. The college building is set back from Central Yanan Road with a large open play area that extends south to the road. The General Lu house is a very large building; it extends north a long distance along Maoming. Building 1 is the main Lu house and Building 2 is along the west side of Building 1 and was likely the servant quarters. The gardens are long gone. I was able to go into the General Lu main house and also walk through the Jeanne dArc college compound on a Sunday in October, 2007. Fourth Marines Church Church services were held in at least five theaters in Shanghai. The location of the church service was known as the Fourth Marines Church. This was also the church of the U.S. Navy ships of the Asiatic Fleet in port and the shore based personnel supporting the ships. The chaplains were Navy officers who attended to and welcomed personnel from ships in port, according to Marine Don Versaw. A band concert by the Marine band usually followed the service. Four of the theaters (Carlton, Embassy, Grand and Metropol) were close to each other in the area just north of the Race Course. Two of the theater buildings survive, the Cathay and Grand. Summer services were held at outdoor locations because of the heat until the air conditioned Cathay Theater was first used in July, 1932. While I have designated the theaters as churches one through five below, a review of the Walla Walla indicates theater usage was not totally sequential. There was some switching back and forth among theaters in the late 1930s. A history of the Fourth Marines Church through late 1933 states: The Fourth Marines Church was organized in 1928 . . . to provide one central Sunday morning service for the Marines on duty in Shanghai. Prior to this time services were held in mess halls and barracks and it was necessary to go from place to place because of the distance between billets. The Marines in Shanghai, being on expeditionary duty are not in a central barracks or station. Residences, schools, even factories have to be utilized, and at the present time there are twelve billets, some of them more than a mile distant from Head-quarters. The same situation existed in 1928 and after months of trying to hold several services every Sunday morning in the billets with a small attendance at each, it was found that the Embassy Theater on Bubbling Well Road could be secured. The Colonel arranged for the Fourth Marines Band to give a concert of classical music in connection with the service. The first service was held on the second of September, 1928, with an attendance of more than six hundred marines and civilians.In the spring of 1930 it was found that . . . the use of the Italian Gardens could be secured [for church services] during the summer months. In the autumn of 1930 the use of the Carlton Theater during the winter months was offered . . . by . . . Mr. Butler, manager of the United Theatres. For two winters the Church continued its weekly messages of goodwill and friendship in this location. In April 1932 I [Chaplain Brooks] relieved Chaplain Truitt as Regimental Chaplain of the Fourth Marines. The services in the Carlton Theater continued as usual through June. It was then found necessary to find a new meeting place for the summer. The Italian Gardens were being demolished, and no other open air assembly room could be found. Mr. Butler again proved a valuable friend by offering the use of the new Cathay Theatre at Rue Cardinal Mercier and Avenue Joffre near the Third Battalion billets. Air conditioning was being installed which would make the auditorium comfortable in the hottest weather, and the interior arrangement of the Cathay was ideal for a church service. On July 3rd [1932] the first service in the Cathay Theatre was held. . . . Carlton Theater: This theater was located at 21 Park (Huanghe) Road just north of the Race Course. Park Road was the first road west of the ParkHotel. The theater building was torn down in late 2004. A high rise is being built on the site. This was the second Fourth Marines Church beginning in the Fall, 1930. Cathay Theater: This theater is on the corner of Avenue Joffre and Rue Cardinal Mercier (South Maoming Road) at 868 Avenue Joffre (870 Central Huaihai Road). The theater still exists and has been refurbished. This was the third Fourth Marines Church beginning in July, 1932. The Cathay was also used during the summer and early fall of 1937 as reported in the Walla Walla, probably because it was air conditioned. I walked into the lobby in October, 2007 to see how it compared to the Grand. The Grand lobby is much larger and more ornate. Embassy Theater: This theater was located at 742 Bubbling Well which is west of the Race Course. This building was next door to the west from the Fourth Marines Club at 722Bubbling Well. This was the first Fourth Marines Church beginning in September, 1928. The building has not survived. A high rise building is on the site. Grand Theater: This is the first Grand Theater located north of the Race Course at 216Bubbling Well Road near the corner of Bubbling Well and Park Roads. The theater still exists under the same name. This was the fifth and final Fourth Marines Church which was used from late August or early September, 1939 until November 1941 when the Marines left Shanghai. A review of the Walla Walla indicates the theater was used beginning as early as January 1937 with a temporary move to the air conditioned Cathay Theater in the summer of 1937. The last service at the Grand was held on November23, 1941 just before the regiment left Shanghai on November 27-28. Marine Don Versaw, a member of the Fourth Marines Band in 1940-41, remembers that the band was dropped off at the rear entrance of the Grand Theater for rehearsal on Sunday morning before the service and that some band members would have a drink in the bar off the first floor theater lobby after rehearsal and before church service. I walked through the lobby area of the theater in July, 2007. There is still a large second floor lobby and the building has been well maintained. The old rear entrance structure can still be seen from the street behind the theater but is no longer open. Metropol Theater: This theater was at 500 Thibet (Xizang) Road on the east border of the Race Course just north of Nanking Road on the east side of the road. This location is just behind the Sun Department Store building. This was the fourth Fourth Marines Church used beginning sometime after June, 1938 until August, 1939 when it closed for renovations. The building was torn down in 1997. Catholic Churches: The September 25, 1937 Walla Walla urged Catholic Marines to attend mass at St. Aloysius Church at 734 Kiaochow Road or The Church of Christ the King at 235 Rue Bourgeat (Changle Road). These churches were also the recommended Catholic churches in other issues of the Walla Walla. The Fourth Marines Church program for March31, 1940 mentions only St. Aloysius Church. Neither church building has survived. A number of high rise apartments are on the site of St.Aloysius Church and Gonzaga college. Chaplains Office: The chaplains office (called Chaplain Hall in 1929) was locatedat 118 Sinza along with the offices of the Walla Walla. In 1937, according to source (12), the Chaplains Office was at 527 Haiphong in the regimental headquarters building. In May, 1940, it was in the regimental headquarters building at 1607 Sinza Road. Fourth Marines Band The Fourth Marines Band (the Band) was a very visible and important part of the regiments presence in Shanghai. The Bands concerts following church services were open to the public and enjoyed by the community of Settlement residents as well as the Marines. The Bands web site has a comprehensive history of the Band and its time in Shanghai. As indicated above, two of the theaters where the Band gave concerts still stand, the Grand and Cathay. The Bands billet at 1051 Bubbling Well Road is still there. I walked into the 551 entrance in October, 2007 and walked west into the area where the Band billet was located but the billet is gone.  The Bands final billet was Billet Marix at the northeast corner of Seymour and Sinza (1226 Sinza) according to Marine Don Versaw. The Band moved to this billet when the Peking Legation Band joined the regiment in April, 1941. Mr. Versaw recalled that the lower deck (level) of a large storage room was cleared out to house the entire combined bands. The Band left Shanghai with the 1st Battalion and part of the regimental headquarters on November28, 1941. The Band followed Colonel Howard and his staff on the march down Bubbling Well and Nanking Roads to the President Line dock on the Bund. Tenders carried the Marines to the SS President Harrison anchored in deeper water. The 2nd Battalion had embarked on the SS President Madison the day before. The ships sailed together to the regiments destiny in the Philippines. The Bands last performance in Shanghai was played about a block south of Nanking Road near the President Line dock at the intersection of Jiujiang Road and the Bund. A photo on the Bands web site shows the departure scene on November 28, 1941 looking west from the bank of the Whampoo River. The former Bank of Taiwan (No. 16) and North China Daily News (No. 17) buildings were in the background. These buildings still stand on the Bund. The presentelevated walkway along the Bund covers part of the departure site but one can stand below the walkway and look west toward the buildings in the photo and visualize the scene on November 28, 1941. Regimental Clubs The clubs were located in various places until the Fourth Marines Club opened in April, 1938 and all other clubs were closed. The initial regimental club was located in the former American Players Canteen at 30 Ferry Road. Privates Club: A Privates Club annex was established at 733 Haiphong in August 1930 after regimental headquarters moved to 527 Haiphong. Advertisements in the 1931-32 and 1932-33 editions of the Fourth Marines Annual identify the Privates Club as being at 41-43 Gordon. The main club was at 243 Gordon and the annex at 762 Ferry in 1934. (The second regimental hospitalwas located at 243 Gordon beginning in September, 1937.) The 1933-34 edition of The Fourth Marines Annual has an advertisement for the Privates Club with an address of 283 Gordon. In 1937,the enlisted mans club was at 283 Gordon with a Race Course Branch Club at 31WeiHai Wei Road. NCO Club: The NCO Club was located at 198 Seymour Road in late 1929. This address was under the old scheme the address 198 was directly south of the synagogue at 200 Seymour. The club was at 205 Nanyang Road in 1934 and early 1935. This road is one block north of Nanking and runs for only a short distance east-west between Hardoon (Tongren) and Seymour Roads. This building survives on the south side of the street near Hardoon. Just to the east of 205 at 132 is the Big Bamboo, a current sports bar popular with Americans who live in the area. In 1937, an NCO Branch Club was at 660 Seymour. The 660 Seymour building became the Seymour Branch of the Club as indicated below. 2nd Battalion Club: In 1932, the club was located at 7 Weihaiwei Road. Theclub was located at 31 Weihaiwei Road from 1933 until at least early 1935. Number 7 was likely the same as 31 because of the addressing scheme change in April, 1933. This club was just south and a little east of the battalions Chengtu Compound. The site of the club is now a small park. This club was called the Race Course Branch Club in 1937. Fourth Marines Club: In April, 1938, thanks to past members of the regiment, a permanent club was established known as the Fourth Marines Club (the Club) at 722 Bubbling Well. The Club opened on April9, 1938 and included a noncommissioned officers bar on the second floor, a privates bar, three lane bowling alley, pool tables, a small gymnasium, library, restaurant, ball room on the second floor with a sky light, movie theater and dining room. The description of the Club library indicates the club atmosphere continued in the building: The Library, situated in the main building next to the N. C. O. Bar, is a large room designed in the Elizabethan motif, with dark paneled walls and heavy exposed beams. A large fireplace of redbrick carries the Elizabethan tradition further. The furniture consists of comfortable leather upholstered chairs and lounges, with many floor lamps. All books from every library in the regiment have been brought to this reading room and a wide variety of fiction and non-fiction should be available to members of the club. Shanghai historian Peter Hibbard provided the following history of the building: Original building for the International Race Club on the site opened in 1910. The club was open to Chinese and foreigners, primarily to promote horse racing but also other forms of recreation. Rebuilt and reopened in 1929 to designs by Palmer & Turner, architects, in London club style. It was taken over in 1935 by the International Club (a social club for Chinese and foreigners) then by the Fourth Marines. They vacated the premises at the beginning of October 1941 and the Shanghai Jewish Club moved in soon after. The Marines then went back to their old and small premises on Seymour Road. They had been trying to get club premises on the 5th floor of the Sun department store building but had no success. The Shanghai Race Club sold the building to the Jewish Club of Shanghai on December16, 1940 and the new owner declined to extend the lease beyond its expiration date of June 30, 1941. The Club building survives on the north side of Bubbling Well Road just west of the Race Course as the headquarters for Chunlan Investment Holdings Co., Ltd., according to the Chunlan website. The building was being used as a U.S. Navy enlisted mens club in late 1945. This use likely continued until the U.S. withdrew from China in 1949. The Jingan governments web site describes the building and its history as follows: At No. 722, West Nanjing Road sits a stately and elegant building with a feel of primitive simplicity. It was once the location of the Shanghai Jewish Club, and is now the headquarters of the Chunlan Group. The mansion is representative of the Pseudo-Renaissance style of architecture. The front takes on a rectangular shape and the elevation is perfectly symmetrical. There is a low slope roof, covered with red flat tiles. An arched porch with two columns is located at the main entrance. The floor design is a mosaic of white and black marble. On the two wings, the wall on the two wings, the wall on the first floor leads to a Tashkent-style arched corridor, over which there is a large balcony adorned with curved railing of granite plaster. The elevation is supported with golden bamboo, while the first floor is finished with artificial stone. The meticulously designed windows and entry porch are supported by small classical columns. There is an arc in the center of the entrance hall for decoration, carved in an extremely sophisticated way. The building contains a dance hall, a small theatre, a bar, a dining hall featuring a carefully planned spring floor, and various other rooms. The interior walls are made of teakwood. The first floor corridor is covered with a Gothic flat roof, and inlaid with stained glass, demonstrating the exceptional skills and wonderful workmanship that went into this buildings design. In 1961, the building was transferred from the Shanghai Textile Industry Administration Bureau to the Land Administration Bureau. It was used as an office for the Shanghai Peoples Political Consultative Conference, and then later became the Shanghai Friendship Club. In 1998, it was transferred to the Chunlan Group, the producer of Chunlan air conditioners, and the building now serves as the groups headquarters. There is a wall around the building with closed gates but I was able to take photos through the gates in October 2006 and was able to take photos from inside the gates in October, 2007. The building is not as large as I had imagined but appears to be well-preserved by its current owner. Seymour Branch of the Club. The August 19, 1939 Walla Walla indicated its business offices were at House 3, Lane660, Seymour Road which was the Seymour Branch of the Club. The 1939 regulations for the Club identify only a Seymour Road Branch and no other branches. The regimental library was in the Seymour Road Branch in early 1939. Marine Don Versaw remembers that this club had a small bar with limited seating and great food, particularly NCO Rice, a special dish of fried rice. Lane 660 is still there but the house in which the club was located is gone. Officers Clubs Marine officers had an officers club and also frequented the American Club, Shanghai Club and Columbia Country Club. Officers Club: This club is mentioned in the Walla Walla but I have only been able to identify the May, 1940 location as being in the regimental headquarters at 1607 Sinza Road. American Club: The American Club, built in 1926, was a center of American life in Shanghai prior to World War II. It was located at 209 Foochow (Fuzhou) Road: The Americans were represented by a slightly less elegant building near the Bund. The six-storied red-brick building housed the offices of the American Chamber of Commerce and the LaSalle Extension University as well as the usual club house facilities: dining room, reading room, card and mahjong room, a billiards room, a bar which took up most of the ground floor, and a bowling alley in the basement. The upper floors had 50 bedrooms for bachelor members. Women were not admitted except on the annual Ladies Night and other limited occasions until July1, 1937 when a ladies section opened, according to Shanghai historian Peter Hibbard. This was open to members wives with extensive facilities for them on the 5th Floor, including a lounge, dining room and rest room. The building is still there but is not open to the public. The current use may be as a court house. There is a heritage architecture plaque on the building placed there by the Shanghai Municipal Government. Columbia Country Club: This was an American social club but membership was open to the international community. It was located at 301 Great Western Road in what was then the western outskirts of Shanghai, outside of the Settlement. The club had tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool and a squash court. The club house was in the Moorish/ Spanish revival style, with a large verandah in back for dining and dancing under the stars. The regiment held a flag raising ceremony and parade and review at this club on July 4, 1940 in celebration of Independence Day. The building is still there and is used as a pharmaceutical research facility. It is not open to the public. Shanghai Club: The Shanghai Club was located at No. 3 the Bund (now No. 2 the Bund) and opened in 1911. It was primarily a British club but other nationals were admitted to membership. The building still stands and is awaiting renovation. YMCAs Navy YMCA: The Marines held many athletic events at the Navy YMCA located at 630 Szechuen (Sichuan) Road, the southeast corner of Hong Kong (still named Hong Kong) and Szechuen Roads. This building was built for and first occupied by the Navy YMCA in June, 1923. Basketball, bowling, volleyball, gymnastics, swimming and boxing were available there. The YMCA also provided other activities for the Marines such as tours of cultural attractions, lessons in eating with chopsticks and language lessons. It had a restaurant that advertised good, homelike food. The Navy YMCA rates a two page spread in the 1933-34 Fourth Marines Annual which illustrates its importance to the Marines. Marine Don Versaw recalls: In pre-war days it was the center of much social and recreational activity. . . . The YMCA was an important Billet too. The Navy YMCA building still stands. There is no heritage architecture plaque on this building. The first level is used as a retail store. In October 2006, I tried to go in what was the main entranceto the YMCA on Szechuen Road but the doors were locked. The doors were open in March 2007 onto the lobby for what appeared to be current use as an apartment building. Old photos show the large YMCA sign above this door. The first level likely has always been used as retail space as the August 17, 1929 Walla Walla indicates the Phonola Music Store was located in the building. Foreign YMCA: The Foreign YMCA headquarters built in 1928 and located at 150Bubbling Well still stands and is being used as the citys sports administration building. TheMarines participated in swimming meets, basketball games and bowling at this YMCA according to the Walla Walla. Marine Don Sargent remembers playing basketball for the Fourth Marines team at the Foreign YMCA. Mr. Sargents 1939 championship team is pictured on the cover of a 1939 edition of the Walla Walla. Two Marine officers lived at the Foreign YMCA as of May 1940. A number of other YMCA/YWCA buildings remain standing in Shanghai including the building at 55 Yuen Ming Yuen (Yuanmingyuan) Road which was built in 1933. Along Bubbling Well Road Bubbling Well Road was a center of activity for the Fourth Marines. There are still stretches of this road that Marines of the regiment would recognize. The address numbering used in the late 1930s is still the same. Starting on the north side of the Race Course, the Shanghai Pacific Hotel (the China United Assurance Apartments when the regiment was in Shanghai) at 104, Foreign YMCA at 150, Park Hotel at 170 and Grand Theater at 216 were all part of the preWar landscape. Two Marine officers from the regiment lived at the Park Hotel as of May,1940. Landmarks going west along Bubbling Well from the Park Hotel are the Chengdu Viaduct (the Viaduct) and then the Club at 722. The north-south Viaduct above Chengtu Road is a relatively new addition to the Shanghai landscape. Addresses to the west of Chengtu Road are 500 numbers and 400 numbers are to the east. The Chengtu Compound was at the east side of the Viaduct on the north side of the street. Nothing remains of the compound. The north part of the compound is occupied by a high rise and the south side is a construction site where another new building will be constructed. The Company G billet from the 1938 period at 526Bubbling Well Road is also gone. I compiled a list of advertisers from the Walla Walla from the late 1930s that had addresses on Bubbling Well and then checked to determine if the buildings (not the businesses) still existed. I assumed the Marines frequented the advertisers businesses or the businesses wouldnt have placed advertising. I also added several businesses I found in directories of the period. The bold entries below are landmarks to help place the other buildings. Even numbers are on the north side and odd numbers on the south side of the street. Following is what I learned walking along Bubbling Well: NumberPlacePeriodBuilding Status104CUA Caf on the ground floor of the China United Assurance Building. Advertised in the Walla Walla as The Cosiest Bar in Shangai (sic).1934Still there as the Shanghai Pacific Hotel.170Park Hotel216Grand Theater254Majestic Caf (next door to the Grand Theater). This was a caf and dance hall west of the theater. A taxi dance hall according to Marine Don Versaw.1939The building may still be there. There are addresses for 242 and 248. The building to the west of 248 is an old 4 or 5 story building with a new front being put on it. The Majestic was in a two story building according to Marine Don Versaw and early photos.278Little Bar (opposite the Race Course). This was also known as the Little Club.1938This building is probably gone.294Ceylon Gems (few doors west of Grand Theater)1938Gone325Race Course ClubhouseStill there as the Shanghai Art Museum.399J.W. Marriott Hotel441-445Building with date 1922 on it475Jen Li Co. Rug Store1934-38Still there. Across the street from Chengtu Compound. Addresses 475 to 491 are all in one old building481Joes Caf (Italian dishes) (mouth watering Italian style)1937-1938 Still there. Across the street from the Chengtu Compound.577American Womens Club1933Probably still there.583East China Sporting Goods Co. (athletic goods headquarters for Marines)1939-41Still there. Southwest of the Chengtu Compound on the opposite side of the street585Shanghai Broadcasting and Television International News Exchange Center719-721Dutch Village Inn restaurant (opposite the International Recreational Club) Pre April, 1938Still there. The entire south side of the 700 block is still there.722Fourth Marines Club1938Still there as the Chunlan Investment Holdings Co. Ltd.741Little Caf (& Sweet Shop opposite Embassy Theater)1933-1934Still there747Golden Star Rugs1934Still there749First Dental Clinic (Felix Lawitz, M.D.)1939-40Still there753MacKenzie Sports Company1934Still there778Dr. B.P. Gringut, Dental Surgeon1939-40783Vita Pharmacy1934Still there870Russian Restaurant1938Still there882Dentist S.M. Wolk (In 1939-40 he was at 868, Majestic Apartments, Apt. 101)1938Still there. An architecture heritage sign on the building identifies it as the Majestic Apartments at 882. The apartments were from 862-882 according to city directories.883Chocolate Shop (Western Branch)1933-39Gone893Dombey & Son Meat Store1938Gone900Clover Restaurant1934Still there946-966John Maynard Photo Studios1934950Your Chance Trunk Co.1940May be there961Brunos Tavern 1938Gone986Eddys Tavern1938Still there1001New Kiessling Caf1933Gone1037C. Fong Kee Tailor Shop1934-1939Probably still thereGordon Road1166Savoy Bar1939Gone1168Citic SquareCovers the entire block Gordon to Seymour, Nanjing to NanyangSeymour Road1206Franks Bar (New Clipper Bar in 1940)1938Gone1225JC Mandarin Hotel1257Dollar Caf1938Gone1266The Service Bar1938Gone1266Plaza 66 Shopping Mall(covers most of block Seymour to Ferry, Nanjing to Nanyang.)Ferry Road1376Portman Ritz-Carlton Hotel1567The Great Eastern Dispensary1940May be there1628-30Del Conte Restaurant and Bar1937GoneSeveral other remaining buildings on Bubbling Well were part of the Fourth Marines landscape including 441-443-445 with a 1922 date on the building south across from the site of the Chengtu Compound and the 700 block of buildings on the south side of the street across from the Club. A mansion at 1051 Bubbling Well that served as the barracks for the Fourth Marines Band and Battery F of the 2nd Anti-Aircraft Battalion in 1937-38 still exists. It is not at street side but can be viewed through a lane at 1081 Bubbling Well. The Fourth Marines was reinforced from September 1937 February 1938 by this battery, the Sixth Marines and other units when fighting between the Chinese and Japanese again intensified. I had talked to Marine Walter Powers who lived in the building and wanted to determine if it was still there. Mr.Powers remembered the Band practicing its marching music at this billet while he was there. The building is currently a restaurant. This building is now surrounded by newer apartment buildings on all sides and there is no room for marching practice for a band. Love Lane (Wujiang Road), just south of the 700 block of buildings on Bubbling Well, still has its preWar buildings with the exception of one new building. This Lane had a house of prostitution which Marine Don Versaw reports was too expensive for the Marines. The narrow road was like a pedestrian mall with many food and drink stands on the Sunday I visited. Soochow (Suzhou) Creek Defense Perimeter There is a quiet and well-landscaped walking/bike path along part of the south side of Soochow Creek, the key part of the Marines defense perimeter in the 1930s. The creek was the north border of the Settlement. The creek and its bridges were like a frontier border crossing in 1932 and later in the 1930s as tensions increased. Initially, the fighting was between the Japanese and Chinese in Chapei, the area of Shanghai on the north side of the creek. Later, after Shanghai fell to the Japanese, the tensions were directly with the Japanese who wanted control over the Settlement. There are many high rise apartment buildings on both sides of the creek but there are stillsome buildings on the north side of the creek that Marines on duty at the bridge barricades would recognize. I walked across the Woochen Bridge (also spelled Wuchun or Wu Chin) (theBridge) which the Marines defended and took photos of some of the old buildings on the north side. The Bridge (currently named Wuzhen Bridge) is of recent construction and is not thepre-War bridge. The Marines guard post on the south side of the Bridge is where the regimental mascot Soochow was found by the Marines (or Soochow found the Marines) in late August, 1937. Being a dog lover, I looked for Soochows descendants but found only a bull dog a few blocks south out on a walk with his owner. Soochow was captured with the regiment in the Philippines, amazingly survived being a POW, and retired at the Marine Corps Base in San Diego where he is buried. The Park Hotel at 170 West Nanjing Road is a good place to start to go to the Bridge. The street on the west side of the hotel is Huanghe Road which goes north to Xinzha where you can see the creek. The Bridge is just west along the walking path. Conclusion Shanghai is changing rapidly, particularly in the area of the Settlement. Redevelopment is moving from the west to the east and, as indicated, has completely changed many of the areas where Marine billets were located. Some of the most interesting places associated with the Fourth Marines that survive are the Club, the College Compound buildings, the Billet Pendleton buildings, the 1st Battalion headquarters at 225Ferry, the entry gate into the Haiphong Compound, 1051 Bubbling Well, theNavy YMCA building and the 300 block on Seymour. There are many pre-War buildings onNanyang and Avenue Roads near the sites of the Fourth Marines billets. Redevelopment has advanced to a point about four blocks west of the Bund and, hopefully, will not keep marching east. The land close to the Bund is very valuable which makes the old buildings vulnerable. Some of the buildings are supposed to be renovated for adaptive use as part of the North Bund Development Project (the Project). A Peninsula Hotel is being built on the north end of the Bund at the southwest side of the old British Consulate grounds. Construction was proceeding slowly as of July, 2007. The old British Consulate and consul residence at the north end of the Bund are the oldest buildings on the Bund. They were built in 1872 and 1884, respectively. Union Church, at 107 Soochow Road (the corner of Soochow and Yuen Ming Yuen Roads), at the north end of the old consulate grounds, was heavily damaged by fire in January, 2006 and its restoration status is unknown. Parts of the church date back to 1886. The old buildings west across the street from the Peninsula Hotel construction site (including an old YMCA building) are very dilapidated but are to be included inthe Project. The Capitol Theater (no longer operating) at the south end of the Chapoo Road bridge across Suzhou Creek is abandoned and dilapidated. This theater was seen in the 1986 movie Empire of the Sun in a view looking south from the Chapoo Road bridge as cars were leaving the Settlement through the barricades at the bridge. The theater building is also to be included intheProject. The building at 181 Kiangse (Jiangxi) Road which housed the U.S. consulate as of May1940 is not in danger. The Navy YMCA building does not appear threatened at this time and is part of the Project. The American Club building may be in danger because it is farther west from the Bund and, standing in front of the building, you can see construction cranes and sites immediately to thewest. In conclusion, this is intended to be a working document. Additional information, comments and corrections will be welcomed so this part of the Fourth Marines history in Shanghai can be recorded. Sources Tess Johnston and Deke Erh, A Last Look Western Architecture in Old Shanghai, OldChina Hand Press, Hong Kong, 1991 (revised edition in 2004). Also see website,  HYPERLINK "http://www.earnshaw.com/shanghai-ed-india/tales/tables.htm" www.earnshaw.com/shanghai-ed-india/tales/t-all.htm, in the Reading Room of the Tale of Old Shanghai. This has a chapter on clubs and includes addresses of theaters. Flying Tigers Guide to Shanghai, December, 1945 in the Reading Room on the Tales ofOld Shanghai website,  HYPERLINK "http://www.earnshaw.com/shanghai-ed-india/tales/tales.htm" www.earnshaw.com/shanghai-ed-india/tales/tales.htm. J. Michael Miller, From Shanghai to Corregidor: Marines in the Defense of the Philippines, Marines Historical Center, Washington, D.C., 1997. This has a detailed description of the regiments departure from Shanghai on November 27, 1941. The Walla Walla magazine was the weekly magazine of the Fourth Marines in Shanghai. It was the weekly magazine of the 2nd Brigade from September, 1937 to February, 1938. Both the stories and advertisements contain useful information. The SanDiego Marine Corps Recruit Depot Command Museum (the MCRD Archives) has many editions of the magazine which are a wealth of information. The Walla Walla was funded by Jack Rileys slot machines and advertising according to Marine Don Versaw. Riley had slot machines throughout Shanghai and paid the Marine clubs to putslot machines in them. These funds were used to support the Walla Walla. Fourth Marines Band website,  HYPERLINK "http://www.fourthmarinesband.com" www.fourthmarinesband.com. This website includes Donald L. Versaws book, The Last China Band. Chaplain Joseph H. Brooks, Distinguished Service and Other Tales given in the Fourth Marines Church, Fourth U.S. Marines, Marine Corps Expeditionary Force, 1933. The first chapter is a history of the church up until late 1933. The other chapters are selected sermons. Shanghai Municipal Tourism Administrative Commission, Tour of Shanghais Historical Architecture, 2003. Richard A. Long, Shanghai, November 1941: The Last China Marine Church Service, Leatherneck Magazine, November, 2001, at page 56. Fourth Marines Annual, Fourth Marines, Marine Corps Expeditionary Force, Shanghai, China. This book contains photographs of the regimental and battalion headquarters as well as billets. The 1931-1932, 1932-1933 and 1933-1934 annuals are available in the MCRD Archives. There are no page numbers in these annuals. Virtual Shanghai website,  HYPERLINK "http://www.virtualshanghai.ish-lyons.cnrs.fr" www.virtualshanghai.ish-lyons.cnrs.fr. Virtual Shanghai is aweb-based research and resource platform on the history of Shanghai from the mid-nineteenth century to the present day. This website has many old maps and images of theaters and other buildings in Shanghai. The creator of Virtual Shanghai, Christian Henriot, is a historian of modern China and currently a Stanford Humanities Fellow. He was particularly helpful in guiding me through the Shanghai Street Directory. James Shaws Present Arms website about the China Marines,  HYPERLINK "http://www.wclynx.com/burntofferings/adsusmc.html" www.wclynx.com/burntofferings/adsusmc.html. The website contains a list of addresses of Fourth Marines locations in Shanghai that is of the same general time period as source (12). A Marines Map of Shanghai dated July 25, 1937, published by the Walla Walla, from the James Shaw Collection. Shanghai Street Directory, The Free Trading Co., Ltd., Shanghai, 1939-41. Map, Western District of International Settlement, Shanghai, China, no date but in theperiod September 1937 February 1938 when the 6th Marine Regiment was in Shanghai. Map was compiled by the Intelligence Office, 4th Marines and traced by Cpl. Kim Berg for the 2nd Battalion, 6th Marines. This map is in the MCRD Archives. The map shows the billets and other locations of the Second Brigade and the September25, 1937 Walla Walla, page 29, contains a list of Billets of the Second Brigade (and their addresses) which is provided below with other information Ihaveadded: OrganizationLocation2nd Marine BrigadeBrigade Headquarters65 Gordon Road. Building is gone.Brigade Headquarters Company1051 Bubbling Well Road. Building is still there.Battery F, 2nd Anti-Aircraft Battalion1051 Bubbling Well RoadFourth Marines Band1051 Bubbling Well RoadFourth Marines [locations are in the text]Sixth MarinesHeadquarters, Headquarters and ServiceCompanies (Billet 600)South side, Connaught Road between Hart and Kiaochow Roads. The headquarters building may still be there at 759 Kangding hidden behind the buildings at street side.Headquarters, 1st Battalion (Billet 610)Southeast corner, Singapore and Hart Roads in the Singapore Road Park. This park site is covered by high rise residential buildings with only a little green area in the middle.A, B, and C Companies, 1st Battalion (Billet 611)Southwest corner, Haiphong and Singapore Roads. This camp was also in Singapore Park on the east side of the park.Headquarters and D Companies, 1st Battalion (Billet 612)Southeast corner, Singapore and Kiaochow Roads. This corner was also the location of the British Kiochow Road Camp. This corner was the location of Gonzaga College and St. Aloyius Church in 1937-38. There is a large abandoned industrial complex just south of the church site at 668 Kiaochow which would have provided ample space for many troups.Headquarters, Headquarters and H Companies, 2nd Battalion (Billet 620)Southeast corner, Sinza and Hart Roads. This was 1607-09 Sinza.E Company, 2nd Battalion (Billet 621)Southeast corner, Wutung and Ferry Roads. This was Billet 18, Lane 370, Ferry Road, the .22 caliber indoor rifle range.F and G Companies, 2nd Battalion (Billet 622)North side Sinza Road, between Seymour and Gordon Roads. This was Billet 12 at 1226 Sinza.Map of Shanghai with hand drawn locations by R.H. Ole Olson, F Co provided by Marine David Johnson. No date but mid-1940 to late 1941 when Mr. Johnson was with the Fourth Marines in Shanghai. Map of Shanghai provided by Robert Denig, son of a Shanghai Marine. No date but from the September18, 1932 to December19, 1934 period when the Fourth Marines had all of its three battalions in Shanghai. Fourth U.S. Marines, Telephone Directory, May, 1940. North-China News Shanghai Hong Lists. These are detailed city directories published in July of most years of publication. I have had access to the 1929, 1934, 1936, 1939 and 1941 editions. Tess Johnston graciously allowed me to use her personal collection of these directories, which is much appreciated, as they are very hard to find. Peter Hibbard, The Bund; Shanghai China Faces West, Odyssey Books, 2007. A Guide to Catholic Shanghai, Tou-se-we Press, 1937. Street Names Chart FormerCurrentAvenue Foch (East)West Jinling RoadAvenue Foch (West)Central Yanan RoadAvenue JoffreCentral Huaihai RoadAvenue RoadWest Beijing RoadBubbling Well RoadWest Nanjing RoadChengtu RoadChengdu RoadColumbia RoadPanyu RoadConnaught RoadKangding RoadFerry RoadXikang RoadFoochow RoadFuzhou RoadGordon RoadJiangning RoadGreat Western RoadWest Nanjing Road/West Yanan RoadHaiphong RoadYuyao/ Haifang RoadHardoon RoadTongren RoadHart RoadChangde RoadHong Kong RoadHong Kong RoadJessfield RoadWanhangdu RoadKiangse RoadJiangxi RoadKiukiang RoadJiujiang RoadLove LaneWujiang RoadMarkham RoadHuaan RoadMoulmein RoadNorth Maoming RoadNanking RoadEast Nanjing and West Nanjing RoadNanyang RoadNanyang RoadPark RoadHuanghe RoadPeking RoadBeijing RoadRue BourgeatChangle RoadRue Cardinal MercierSouth Maoming RoadSeymour RoadShanxi RoadSinza RoadXinzha RoadSzechuen RoadSichuan RoadThibet RoadXizang RoadWuting RoadWuding RoadYuen Ming Yuen RoadYuanmingyuan Road  ( Many persons have provided help on this paper which is much appreciated. Tess Johnston of Shanghai, author of many books on Shanghai history and architecture, was a major contributor in identifying locations, surviving buildings and the future of surviving buildings, as were Shanghai historians Christian Henriot, Peter Hibbard and Eric Niderost. Marine Bill Parker provided copies ofmany early Walla Walla magazines. Marine Don Versaw, a member of the Fourth Marines Band whoarrived in Shanghai in August 1939 and departed with the regiment in November, 1941, has a great memory of places andevents in Shanghai. Other contributions are mentioned in the paper or source list at the end.  Eric Niderost, China Marines, www.historynet.com.  History of 2nd Battalion, 4th Marines,  HYPERLINK "http://www.usmc.mil/15th" www.usmc.mil/15th meu/BLT2_4/Pages/History.htm  Id.  Third Battalion Fourth Marines Lineage, www.29palms.usmc.mil/fmf/3-4/lineage.asp  J. Michael Miller, From Shanghai to Corregidor: Marines in the Defense of the Philippines, Marines Historical Center, Washington, D.C., 1997 (hereinafter From Shanghai to Corregidor). This has a detailed description of the regiments departure from Shanghai on November 27, 1941.  Richard A. Long, Shanghai, November 1941: The Last China Marine Church Service, Leatherneck Magazine, November,  Chaplain Joseph H. Brooks, Distinguished Service and Other Tales given in the Fourth Marines Church, Fourth U.S. Marines, Marine Corps Expeditionary Force, 1933, page 1.  Fourth Marines Annual, Fourth Marines, Marine Corps Expeditionary Force, Shanghai, China, (hereinafter Fourth Marines Annual), 1933-34. The annuals appear to be published about March so the 1933-34 edition was published about March, 1934. There are no page numbers in these annuals. Walla Walla, January 5, 1929, page 16. The Walla Walla was the weekly publication of the regiment.  As described in the regimental history in the Walla Walla, January 5, 1929, pages 16-25.  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  Undated Map but for the period September 18, 1932 to about July, 1934. Map provided by Robert Denig, son of a Shanghai Marine.  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  According to A Guide to Catholic Shanghai, Tou-se-we Press, 1937 (hereinafter Catholic Shanghai), page 19, the college was founded in 1917 and moved to the Moulmein Road site in 1923 where it remained until 1928 when it moved to 18 Route Doumer to allow expansion.  Walla Walla, January 5, 1929, page 24.  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  1929 Shanghai Hong List published by the North-China News. The North-China News Shanghai Hong Lists are detailed city directories published in July of most years of publication. I have had access to the 1929, 1934, 1935, 1936, 1939 and 1941 editions, thanks primarily to Tess Johnston. These are hereinafter referenced as Hong Lists.  1934 Hong List  Based on the 1929 Hong List.  1929 Hong List  1929 Hong List. A Defense Force facility was also located at 103 Seymour. The other Seymour facilities expressly state American Defense Force so the 103 facility may not have been a Marine facility.  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  In 1940, buildings in the compound were being used as a Chinese high school andcollege. Shanghai Street Directory, The Free Trading Co., Ltd., Shanghai, 1939-41 (hereinafter Street Directory).  There is no date on the map but it shows billets for all three battalions and this is the only period in which the regiment was at full force in Shanghai. Therefore, the map can be dated as between September18, 1932 and July, 1934 as the 1934 HongList has the 1st Battalion along Ferry Road.  This is based on the maps in the Street Directory.  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34, contains photos of the regimental and battalion headquarters and many of the billets. It also has a rough sketch map of where billets and other facilities were located.  1934 Hong List.  Based on the 1936 Hong List.  Walla Walla, November 8, 1930, page 4. There is a photo of this building in the Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  Marines Map of Shanghai dated July 25, 1937, published by the Walla Walla, from the James Shaw Collection and an undated newspaper article from the James Shaw Collection (hereinafter the Shaw Map).  This may have been where 16 Japanese were held prisoner on July 7, 1940 following their capture in the Marines defense sector. This incident is described in Eric Niderost, China Marines, www.historynet.com.  Walla Walla, September 25, 1937, page 29, has a list of the 2nd Brigades billets. Marine Wayne Madden also prepared a map of the 1937 - 1938 period when the Sixth Marines reinforced the Fourth Marines in Shanghai.  See the description of the 2nd Brigade billets in Source14 below.  Walla Walla, April 23, 1938, page 25.  Walla Walla, September 25, 1937, page 29.  Marine Frank White and the history of the battalion in the May 20, 1939 Walla Walla. The February4 and May20, 1939 editions of the Walla Walla contain photos of this compound.  According to a caption on a photo in the Walla Walla in the 1939-40 period.  Walla Walla, September 17, 1938, page 5.  Locations identified in the 1939 Hong List.  Fourth U.S. Marines, Telephone Directory, May, 1940.  Col. J.H. Pendleton. The source of the names for the billets is the Walla Walla, August 5, 1939, page 9.  Major General Charles H. Lyman  Major General John H. Russell  Colonel Dion Williams  Col. Arthur T. Marix  Commander Jones, first regimental surgeon  Lt. Col. Ellis Miller  The Haiphong Compound was used for civilian internees during World War II according to Marine Don Versaw.  1941 Hong List  According to Marine Don Versaw  From Shanghai to Corregidor, Introduction. This has a detailed description of the regiments departure from Shanghai on November 27, 1941.  Id. The three Ferry Road billets were all in the same block between Avenue and Sinza Roads. 225 Ferry was almost directly across the street from the 256 Ferry address.  Id.  According to Marine Don Versaw  Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34. The identification of this location is based on 1929 editions of the Walla Walla. ANovember 1929 WallaWalla has a photograph of the first headquarters.  The address change took place the first week of April, 1933 based on known location addresses changing from one week to the next in the Walla Walla. The headquarters location is based on a study of Hong lists which show addresses relative to intersecting streets.  Walla Walla, July 26, 1930, page 6. See also, A Marines Map of Shanghai, dated July 25, 1937, published by the Walla Walla, from the James Shaw Collection; Map, Western District of International Settlement, Shanghai, China, no date but in the period September 1937 February 1938 when the 6th Marine Regiment was in Shanghai. Map available in the MCRD Archives. There is a photo of this building in the Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34.  Walla Walla, August 20, 1938, page 6. This building was being used as an elementary school for Chinese in 1940 according to the Street Directory.  Walla Walla, September 17, 1938, page 5. A 1938 Christmas Dinner menu for regimental headquarters company indicates the headquarters was then at 1607-09 Sinza.  Page 5.  The October 5, 1929 WallaWalla, page 8, contains a description of this first hospital. There is a photo of this hospital in the Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34. In 1940, according to the Street Directory, the first hospital buildings on Seymour Road were being used as a school.  Walla Walla, September 18, 1937, page 16.  According to the 1940 Street Directory.  The May 13, 1939 Walla Walla has a two page photo spread on the May 9-10, 1939 inspection on the Race Course.  Shanghai Warning, Time Magazine, September 1, 1941.  The park is also shown as a parade ground on map of Shanghai with hand drawn locations by R.H. Ole Olson, F Co provided by Marine David Johnson. The map is undated but is from mid-1940 to late 1941 when Mr. Johnson was with the Fourth Marines in Shanghai. 66 I had a cup of coffee at the Coffee Bean behind the headquarters building in October, 2007.  This gate shows on the map in the Street Directory and is on the cover of the April 23, 1938 Walla Walla.  Fourth U.S. Marines, Telephone Directory, May, 1940.  According to the 1939 and 1941 Hong Lists.  Based on the Hong Lists for 1929 and later years.  This may have been part of the Chinese Inland Mission based on the Street Directory.  Sundays seem to be the best day to gain access to Shanghai school grounds since the children are not there and the security guards are friendlier although they still watch you very carefully.  Chaplain Joseph H. Brooks, Distinguished Service and Other Tales given in the Fourth Marines Church, Fourth U.S. Marines, Marine Corps Expeditionary Force, 1933, pages 1-4. The first chapter is a history of the church up until late 1933. The other chapters are selected sermons. The church was known as the Brigade Church while the 2nd Brigade was in Shanghai from September 1937 to February 1938.  According to Tess Johnston.  A May, 1935 German magazine on architecture, Der Baumeister, has an article with photos and plans of the then new theater at page 178.  Richard A. Long, Shanghai, November 1941: The Last China Marine Church Service, Leatherneck Magazine, November,2007, page 56.  Catholic Shanghai, p _. The campus and church occupied a square block bordering on Singapore (X) Road on the north. This block is still outlined by Singapore Road on the north and a road through the apartment complex to the south of the high rise buildings.  Walla Walla, August 31, 1929, page 4.   HYPERLINK "http://www.fourthmarinesband.com" www.fourthmarinesband.com  Walla Walla, September 25, 1937, page 29.  I located the 551 entrance using the Street Directory. The lane is very narrow with Chinese housing on each side.  The locations are primarily from advertisements in the Walla Walla and the Fourth Marines Annual of various years.  Walla Walla, January 5, 1929, page 5.  Walla Walla, August 9, 1930, page 3.  Walla Walla, November 10, 1934, page 67.  The 1936 Hong List has the address as 277 Gordon.  In 1940, 283 Gordon was a residence according to the Street Directory.  Walla Walla, August 24, 1929, page 6.  Walla Walla, November 10, 1934, page 67. The NCO club was in this building beginning about July, 1930. Walla Walla, September 27, 1930, page 4.  In 1940, this building was being used as a school according to the Street Directory.  Walla Walla, November 20, 1937, page 3. The 1934 Hong List indicates the American Defense Force was occupying Lane660, No. 5. The type of use is not stated.  Walla Walla, December 17, 1932.  Walla Walla, June 3, 1933, page 3. 93 Shaw Map  The amenities of the Club are described in detail in the April9, 1938 Walla Walla.  Walla Walla, December 21, 1940, page 10.  www.chulan.com   HYPERLINK "http://www.jingan.gov" www.jingan.gov.cn  There is a photograph of the Seymour branch of the Club in the photograph section of the November 9, 1940 Walla Walla.  Tess Johnston and Deke Erh, A Last Look Western Architecture in Old Shanghai, Old China Hand Press, Hong Kong, 1991 (revised edition 2004), Chapter 8.  The club was south of Great Western Road just west of Columbia (Panyu) Road according to a 1930s map of Shanghai.  Walla Walla, July 6, 1940, page 3.  See page 91 of Peter Hibbard, The Bund; Shanghai China Faces West, Odyssey Books, 2007 for more information on this club.  From the back of pre-War Navy YMCA maps of Shanghai and the Fourth Marines Annual, 1933-34  He also indicated that it was the Armed Forces YMCA after World War II .  Fourth U.S. Marines, Telephone Directory, May, 1940.  Fourth U.S. Marines, Telephone Directory, May, 1940  November 10, 1934, page 55. Spelled as it was in the advertisement.  See William R. Evans, Soochow and the 4th Marines, Atwood Publishing, Rogue River, OR, 1988 for a history of the mascotSoochow.  Gordon F. Ogilvie, Last Rites for Soochow, Leatherneck Magazine, October, 1948, page 53. Soochow died on April21,1948. I visited the monument to Soochow and other Marine mascots on June 15, 2007. It is on the west side of Guadalcanal Avenue just south of Chu Lai Avenue near the baseball field. The grave site of Soochow is in the vicinity but the exact site is not known.  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